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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.